San Gregorio Armeno: the street of nativity scenes in the heart of Naples

About this activity

The nativity tradition of San Gregorio Armeno has a remote origin: in the street in classical times there was a temple dedicated to the goddess Ceres, to whom citizens offered as votive offerings small terracotta figurines, made in nearby workshops. The birth of the neapolitan nativity scene is of course much later, dating back to the late 18th century. Today, this famous street in Naples gathers a tradition that is still alive and deeply shared by the Neapolitan people.

'O crib! The smell of fish-glue, the suvero to make mountains, the flour to make snow..."

Luciano De Crescenzo, Thus Spoke Bellavista.

Why visit San Gregorio Armeno

The workshops of the nativity masters are open all year round. The atmosphere of San Gregorio Armeno begins to warm up in November, but December is the month when the street is packed with people at all hours of the day until late in the evening.

Today Via San Gregorio Armeno is known worldwide as the street of nativity scenes. Colorful and ancient, the craft stores, from the historic ones of well-known master shepherds such as Ferrigno, Di Virgilio, the Capuano's, Giannotti, and Gambardella, to the more recent ones, parade in front of each other showing off the masterpieces of Neapolitan nativity art. Strictly handmade and in terracotta, the shepherds of San Gregorio Armeno are artfully painted in every detail and dressed in hand-sewn clothes. Walking around and observing the various workshops and small stores, one breathes a magical atmosphere in which traditions and the Christmas spirit survive intact from the hectic chaos of the ever-changing city.

By now, a number of show business personalities, politicians, soccer players and even the Pope are also part of the nativity tradition, enlivening the competition among artisans for whoever creates the most beautiful, truthful, successful figurine. It is possible to stroll through San Gregorio Armeno and watch the master craftsmen at work, as they shape the clay or finish the finishing touches on their shepherds.

The most important things to know about San Gregorio Armeno

The actual exhibitions begin in the period around the holiday season, usually from early November to January 6.The street, which is popularly called the San Liguoro, turns out to be one of the typical constrictions of Greek urban architecture that characterizes the entire ancient center of Naples.

Here stands the historic church of San Gregorio Armeno founded around 930 on the foundations of the ancient temple of Ceres, but it was not until 1205 that the church was named after the saint of the same name. Typical of Via San Gregorio Armeno is the sumptuous bell tower of the church of the same name overlooking the street, which rises above the level of the street. The bell tower serves as a connecting flyover between the two convents (church and monastery) dedicated to St. Gregory of Armenia.

Along the street, going up from the lower decumanus to the major decumanus, there are first the church of San Gregorio Armeno, built around the 10th century, and then, a little further up, with a separate entrance from the religious building, its cloister.