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In the Neapolitan tradition, the Easter dessert that is also a symbol of Spring is undoubtedly the Neapolitan shepherd's pie. With its fresh, sugary flavor flavored with the orange blossom, brings to mind the beautiful spring days when the flowers bloom, and the air is filled with sweet, light scents. In ancient times, pastiera was prepared during Epiphany and Easter, when its main ingredients (ricotta and wheat), were more available.
Legend of the pastiera and its historical origins
The pastiera originated in the 16th century. However, since it is not known from precisely where the idea and recipe for this magnificent Neapolitan dessert came from, there are many legends that accompany its tradition.
A tribute to the song of the siren Partenope
The first has a divine meaning. It is said that the mermaid Partenope who lives in the Bay of Naples, would emerge each spring to greet the inhabitants and sing for them. One of these performances of the siren was so pleasing to the Neapolitans that they commissioned seven of the most beautiful maidens of the people to offer the siren the gifts of their land: flour, ricotta cheese, wheat, eggs, orange blossom water, spices and sugar. Thus the mermaid presented the offerings to the gods who, mixing the ingredients, created the first Neapolitan shepherd's pie.
A gift from the sea
Another legend, however, has it that the sea is responsible for the creation of the pastiera. Some women, wives of fishermen, left baskets with ricotta cheese, wheat and orange blossoms as offerings to the sea at night, worried about the fates of their husbands. In the morning of the following day, the women returned to the beach where they met not only their fishermen husbands, but found in the baskets pastries that the waves of the sea had made by mixing together the offerings left by the women.
King Ferdinand and the smile of Queen Maria Theresa
Then there is the story of Ferdinand II of Bourbon and his second wife, Maria Theresa of Habsburg-Teschen, nicknamed "the queen who never smiles." After tasting the pastiera, her husband insisted that his wife, the mogia queen, also try a slice. After tasting it, the queen unexpectedly smiled, and hence the Neapolitan saying "magnatell'na risata" (literally: eat a laugh) was born, urging, therefore, hilarity.
The pastiera beyond Naples
Tradition has it that in Massaquano, on the day of the Feast of Our Lady (Pentecost Tuesday), there is pastiera in every home. This pastiera is in fact, not only symbolizes is symbol of Easter and Spring, but how much then that was the last day on which the pastiera could be eaten since at one time, with the arrival of hot weather, it could not be stored longer as there were no refrigerators yet.
In Giambattista Basile's fairy tale, "La gatta cenerentola," the sixth tale in the Pentamerone recounts the presence of the pastiera among the delights of the final banquet.
The pastiera in the Neapolitan tradition
The pastiera is definitely one of the best-known food products of the tradition Campania. The Neapolitan dessert is made with a base of a special short pastry enriched with lard, filled with a wheat and ricotta cream, flavored with orange blossom essence and candied fruit. However, each family has its own traditional recipe and has refined its version of the classic pastiera through different and very personal touches that make it even tastier and more varied. Many are in fact the exquisite variants that enrich the tradition with that extra touch desired by the Neapolitans' own culinary experience.
Although it is therefore a dessert that is baked at Easter, throughout the spring period, there are many free and ticketed events organized in Naples where you can get up close and personal with the best recipes for this exceptional Campanian dessert. Moreover, if you are in the Market Square area, the pastiera appears on many bar counters, beyond the infamous Scaturchio. Festivals, exhibitions and events together with Neapolitan bars and pastry shops are a unique opportunity to fill your belly with all the existing variants of this delicious and special traditional Neapolitan cake.
The classic Neapolitan
The original recipe in the Neapolitan tradition, calls for the preparation of the pastry to be made with the lard. This is the secret ingredient to make the pastry elastic and crumbly to the right degree, and differentiate it from the base of a simple tart as it will grant the pastiera a stronger and more distinctive taste.
The cake, then is filled on the inside with a creamy wheat whole wheat cooked in milk, ricotta cheese, and eggs. The cream is enriched and flavored with chopped candied fruit, lemon and orange peel, and a small vial of orange blossom essence, as well as a pinch of cinnamon. In some families variations of the classic involve half or all of the wheat being pureed in order to make the cream more homogeneous and smooth.
The chocolate pastiera
If you don't like candied fruit or the classic, oriental flavor of cinnamon, chocolate pastiera is the variant for you! To prepare it, you need the same steps that you follow to make the classic recipe, but it involves the addition of the chocolate fondant to the ricotta filling and precooked wheat. In other houses, cocoa is used while in still others simply replace the candied fruit with pieces of dark chocolate. Finally, there is yet another chocolate and hazelnut variant in which the base is a cocoa and hazelnut shortbread while in the filling the candied pieces give way to dark chocolate.
The gluten-free rice cake
The pastiera of rice is a version of the Neapolitan but without gluten, suitable and designed for people with celiac disease. The shortcrust pastry is made with a rice and corn flour while the cream calls for rice cooked in milk instead of wheat.
A delicious version suitable for everyone to prepare during the Easter holidays and beyond.
The almond and custard pastiera
Yet another version for those who do not like the strong taste of lard is the pastiera alle almonds and custard. A different taste given by the addition in the pastry dough, of flour and almond flavor. To then make up for the lack of lard but make the soft and crumbly texture typical of the pastiera, condensed milk is used. This ingredient is also combined with the ricotta and wheat cream to give a unique taste to the pastiera and make it sweeter and creamier.
The savory pastiera
Finally, the last very special variation of the classic Neapolitan pastiera, transforms this dessert into an exquisite rustic to serve as an appetizer. The tradition is preserved through the use of wheat and ricotta cheese, but in a delicious and highly original variation salty. The savory shortcrust pastry is made with flour, butter, Parmesan cheese and an egg, but a more convenient and quicker brisè pastry can also be used. The filling is a filling of wheat, Parmesan cheese and butter cooked in milk, combined with a mixture of ricotta, eggs and pecorino cheese that create a perfect base to accommodate diced salami and provolone. So much for candied fruit and orange blossoms!
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