About this activity
If you want to discover the most authentic essence of Naples, you absolutely must make a trip to Spaccanapoli, the street that leads from the Quartieri Spagnoli to the Forcella neighborhood, cutting the city in two parts. This artery has very ancient origins, considering that already for the Greeks represented an important street in the then Neapolis.
Over time Spaccanapoli underwent several extensions made by the Romans, who extended it to what is now Piazza del Gesù, and then to the Spanish Quarters in the 16th century. Today the term Spaccanapoli refers to the Lower Decumanus which is connected to the Upper Decumanus by Via San Gregorio Armeno.
To really realize why this street is so named simply go to the terrace of San Martino, from where you can see all of Naples from above. Here you will see that Spaccanapoli divides the Neapolitan capital exactly in half.
Walking through this area so rich in history and tradition is a unique experience as it allows you to capture the spirit of the truest Naples. It should be said, however, that on maps Spaccanapoli does not exist and has never existed as it is composed of 7 different roads. So it rather stands for a part of the historic center and not a specific street.
History and composition of Spaccanapoli
As already mentioned, Spaccanapoli is so named because it perfectly divides the city between the northern and southern areas. In the beginning, the route started from Piazza San Domenico Maggiore and reached Via Duomo. In Roman times the street was lengthened to join it to Jesus Square, as also evidenced by the remains of Roman baths under the cloister of the Basilica of St. Clare.
During the Renaissance, the street underwent several changes, constructing new buildings on old ruined palaces. Especially during the 16th century, the viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo initiated a massive urban expansion project toward the hill of San Martino, aligning the Lower Decumanus with the Spanish Quarters.
Between the 17th and 18th centuries many private and religious buildings were remodeled, and in the 19th century some buildings were restored to their original form because of their cultural and historical importance. In fact, after World War II the church of St. Clare regained its Gothic structure hidden by 18th-century stuccoes.
Spaccanapoli today is divided into. 3 sections:
- The first section starts from Piazza del Gesù Nuovo and continues on Via Pasquale Scura, Via Maddaloni and Via Benedetto Croce, crossing Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, Piazzetta Nilo and largo Corpo di Napoli;
- The central part consists of Via San Biagio dei Librai;
- The last part consists of Via Vicaria Vecchia, Via Forcella, Via Giudecca Vecchia and Via Ottavio Tupputi.
Why visit Spaccanapoli
A stop in Spaccanapoli is a must for those who wish to fully immerse themselves in the heart of Neapolitan culture. Walking through its streets so picturesque, one has the feeling of going back in time. Between palaces, churches and monuments, there is so much to see.
While exploring Spaccanapoli you can sample the best street food of local gastronomy, such as pizza a portafoglio, fried cuoppi, fried pizzas, per 'e o muss, and much more. Then you can't miss a little stop to drink an excellent Neapolitan coffee at the bar, perhaps accompanied by babas and sfogliatelle.
Along these routes there are so many craft stores where you can buy various souvenirs, including lucky croissants, ceramics and so on. Passing through the famous Via San Gregorio Armeno, you can buy shepherds for the nativity scene practically all year round!
What to see in Spaccanapoli
New Jesus Square
This is one of the most important squares in Naples and owes its name to the fact that it houses the Gesù Nuovo church. Here you can also admire the imposing obelisk of the Immaculate Conception towering in the center and the church of Santa Chiara. La church of the New Jesus was erected in the 17th century in full Neapolitan Baroque style, and many paintings and marble decorations can be seen. Internally it has a Greek-cross plan and laterally to the naves there are 5 chapels.
Monastery of St. Clare
The Monumental Complex of Santa Chiara was built at the behest of Robert of Anjou and his wife Sancia of Majorca in the 14th century. In addition to the church, the structure also included two convents, a male one for Franciscan monks and a female one for Poor Clare nuns. Several royal members of the d'Anjou and Bourbon families were buried in the church. However, the building was destroyed under World War II bombing and was rebuilt following the original artistic canons. The highlight of Santa Chiara is undoubtedly the tiled cloister dating back to the 14th century.
San Domenico Maggiore Square
It is one of the best known and busiest squares in Naples and is an important intersection between two busy streets such as Via Mezzocannone and precisely Spaccanapoli. Here there is always a huge crowd of tourists and locals who fill the local bars in the area to have a coffee or an aperitif. In the center can be seen the obelisk donated by the Dominicans in 1556 as a vow for the end of the plague. Behind the obelisk is the Basilica of San Domenico, built in the Baroque style and enriched with fine sculptures and frescoes.
Sansevero Chapel
From Piazza San Domenico you can take a small detour to visit the famous Sansevero Chapel, one of the most incredible monuments in Naples. Built in the 16th century and renovated in the following century by Prince Raimondo di Sangro, the chapel preserves the statue of the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe Sanmartino. However, other very impressive creations can be seen here, such as the two anatomical machines and various funerary monuments of the di Sangro family.
Nile Square
Walking along Spaccanapoli you will surely encounter Piazzetta Nilo, which owes its name to the statue dedicated to the god Nile. In ancient times, many merchants from Alexandria devoted to the worship of the god Nile worked in this area, and today several buildings overlook the square, including Palazzo de Sangro di Vietri, Palazzo Pignatelli di Toritto, and the church of St. Angel in Nile. The church dates back to the early 15th century and contains several tombs of the Brancaccio family.
Via San Gregorio Armeno
Via San Gregorio Armeno intersects with Spaccanapoli at Via San Biagio dei Librai and is known worldwide as the "street of nativity scenes." On this street there are many artisan workshops that handcraft the figurines for the neapolitan nativity scene. Over time this tradition has evolved and more and more often we see statues of famous people from sports, politics or entertainment. Especially during the Christmas season, Via San Gregorio Armeno swarms with people to such an extent that limited pedestrian traffic zones have to be established.
