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One of the best-known popular events in Campania is undoubtedly the famous feast of the Lilies of Nola, in the province of Naples. It is held annually on June 22 if it falls on a Sunday or on the Sunday following June 22.
The celebration is held in honor of the patron saint St. Paulinus, whose return from captivity to which he was subjected in the fifth century is remembered. The feast of the Lilies is part of the Network of large Italian knapsack machines and has been included in UNESCO's Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity since 2013.
A custom with ancient roots, it was established to commemorate the deportation and enslavement suffered by the people of Nola. There is thus a contrast between pain, represented by carrying heavy wooden structures, and joy, expressed through musical entertainment.
In fact, during the parade, some tall wooden votive constructions which are swayed to the rhythm of music. It is one of the most spectacular festivities, capable of uniting faith and folklore in a unique way and is certainly the most exciting and anticipated moment of the year for the citizens of Nola.
The history of Nola's lily festival
As mentioned, the tradition of the Nola Lilies has a long history behind it, and its origin has been handed down from Pope Gregory I, who recounted the events a century after they occurred.
In particular, the pope recalls the sacrifice made by the Bishop Pauline who offered himself and his possessions to the Visigoths in exchange for the liberation of the inhabitants of Nola, enslaved after the 410 invasions by the Visigoths.
Bishop Paulinus was born in Bordeaux in 355 as Anicius Pontius Meropius Paulinus, the son of a wealthy family.
By the time he was 24 he was consul of Campania and chose Nola itself as his consular seat. In 380 he was appointed prefect of Rome and 9 years later married Therasia that will guide his conversion to Christianity.
The two will have a child named Celsus, who unfortunately died a few days after his birth. The tragedy deeply marked Paulinus' life, and in 393 he decided to leave the mundane life to devote himself to the monastic life. After being ordained a presbyter, he returned to Nola in 395.
The story goes that in 410 the Visigoth king, Alaric I, invaded and sacked Rome and then set his sights on Nola. Meanwhile, Paulinus had been appointed bishop by popular acclamation, but Alaric's armies manage to enter Nola, destroying much of the city and taking many people hostage.
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At this point Paulinus sells all his possessions as ransom, and when he has nothing left, he offers himself in exchange for a widow's son. He is then taken to Africa and sold as a slave.
He ends up working as a gardener for a wealthy lord, and when he prophesies the death of King Alaric, he is brought before the ruler, already restless from a series of strange dreams.
When he learns that he is a bishop, Alaric decides to free Paulinus, who Will return to Nola between 411 and 412, where he would remain until his death on June 22, 431. According to legend on his return he was greeted on the beach of Torre Annunziata with nolanians waving large bouquets of flowers, of the Gigli in fact, escorted by the banners of the guilds of arts and crafts.
The Lilies of Nola
Initially employed as a simple decoration for the candles carried in processions, the lily over time has become a veritable wooden structure made by the skill of carpenters, craftsmen, woodworkers and shipwrights.
The current appearance of the Nola Lilies dates back to the 19th century, when the shoulder-mounted machines reached the 25 meters high, with a total weight of up to 25 quintals. Each lily has a cubic base of 3 meters per side and the supporting element is the so-called 'broadside', the central axis that holds everything up.
The borda was officially introduced in 1887 and was of fundamental importance in making the lily more stable and flexible. These structures are then lifted by means of varre and varritielli, which are chestnut wood bars used to lift and carry them on the shoulder.
Those who wear lilies are known by the name 'cradlers', perhaps because of the undulatory motion that is precisely reminiscent of the act of cradling. Instead, the group of cradlers is called paranza And generally consists of 120 people.
For the Feast of Lilies in Nola a total of 8 lilies are prepared which are then subjected to dressing, that is, the stage of decoration with papier-mâché, stucco and various materials according to historical, religious and topical themes. Usually the structure is decorated starting from the top, where the terminal element is a statue.
In addition to the lilies, a similar, but lower votive machine is also built, on top of which a boat to remember the one that had brought St. Paulinus back to Nola.
Route and ceremonial of the Feast of the Lilies of Nola
The lilies and the boat are named after the ancient guilds of arts and crafts And they parade in this order:
- Ortolanus
- Salumiere
- Bettolier
- Baker
- Boat
- Undertaker
- Shoemaker
- Blacksmith
- Tailor
Votive machines move in procession according to a precise route now codified for many years, traversing the historic core of the city of Nola to the rhythm of songs of Neapolitan and Italian music performed by the town's marching band.
The lily festival in Nola lasts for the entire day, well into the night. On Sunday morning, the lilies are gathered in Cathedral Square and receive a blessing from the bishop. The event begins in the early afternoon and may last until dawn the next day.
The procession winds along this route: Piazza Duomo, via San Felice, via Cocozza, Piazza P. Maggio, via A. Leone, via Merliano, Piazza Calabrese, via Tanzillo, via San Felice (2nd section), via San Paolino, Piazza M. C. Marcello, via De Notaris, Corso Tommaso Vitale, Piazza Duomo.
Along the way you will be able to notice the skill of the cradlers and paranza leaders who work hard to overcome obstacles that may arise such as unevenness, slopes, bottlenecks and curves.
The day of the Nola Lilies festival is just the highlight since. the ceremonial provides for a very busy and rich program that takes place throughout the year. A key role is played by the corporations who have devotional obligations aimed at strengthening relationships among members of the Nolan community.
The 'corporate master' is the one who is put in charge of organizing the celebrations for an individual lily or boat. This person will choose the party master, the paranza leader and the master musician.
The awarding of the lily to the festive master is celebrated with a passing of the flag, and each of the masters organizes gathering events such as the tavuliate, of meetings to raise funds that will go to finance the holding of the festival.
In the first days of June, work begins on the construction of the lilies. Once ready, the weekend before the event they are taken to various squares in Nola as a dress rehearsal.
Then they are moved in front of the houses of the party masters and the dressing of these imposing wooden obelisks that are finely decorated with papier-mâché.
June 22 is the procession in honor of St. Paulinus, where the silver bust of the saint is carried around the main streets of Nola. The following Sunday finally comes the time for the actual feast of the Lilies in Nola, long awaited by all.
The lilies gather in the Piazza Duomo, and around 4 p.m. the parade kicks off, lasting until the first light of dawn. When the last lily, the Tailor, returns to Cathedral Square, the party can be said to be over.
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