It will have happened to almost everyone to encounter along the Neapolitan streets the famous van or cart of the tripe, enlightened and full of meat dripping with water to keep it cool at all times. These are the trippaiuoli, or ventraiuoli, who sell a real salad of tripe, also known in the jargon popular as "'o pere e 'o muss'", which must be rigorously enjoyed cold.

Tripe is nothing but the stomach of an animal, usually beef or pork is used; it is very difficult to describe its flavor because it depends a lot on the way it is seasoned, for example, it can be prepared a la pizzaiola, with the beans, col ragout or in its classic and perhaps most famous version, typical of the neapolitan street food: a cuoppo Well oiled, with tripe, halls and abundant lemon.

Although the appearance is not particularly inviting, do not be fooled! Both the somewhat calloused texture and the flavor are really distinctive and enhanced by the citrusy taste of lemon.

The origins of tripe

The origins of tripe, as one might guess, can be traced back to a period of poverty of the people: during the war, in fact, due to food shortages it was customary to recycle meat scraps, the so-called "zendraglie." The result was a simple dish, prepared with poor ingredients but at the same time satiating and not very elaborate.

Despite the undisputed goodness of this food, which is also served in several variations in the restaurants by luxury modern, at the time this custom was much criticized by the upper classes; in fact, the custom of collecting the scraps of the re or of the inns to feed poor families was considered unhygienic and humiliating.

Fortunately, however, this dish has survived the prejudice of most, continuing to be an essential source of sustenance during the famine And wars.

An interesting curiosity is the story that this dish was secretly introduced into the kitchen of Royal Palace of Naples. The cook Vincenzo Corrado tells us that Ferdinand I, the "Lazarus King," often liked to spend time anonymously among the commoners. One day, after tasting this humble delicacy, he decided to introduce it also in the kitchens of court, in spite of all the rumors of the noble.

Toward the end of the Eighteenth century throughout Italy the poor start cooking feet and heads of pig o calf, resulting in regional variations of the same dish.

Neapolitan-style tripe

The classic Neapolitan recipe, which unlike other soups should be served cold, is a fresh and light salad: first prepare a broth by vegetables with celery, carrot, potatoes, onions, garlic and parsley. Most of all, the lemon juice and the touch of chili. After leaving it in the refrigerator it should be served with a drizzle of oil.

Florentine-style tripe

The tripe Florentine style is particularly popular because of the ease with which it is prepared. Simply add the tripe pieces to a sauté of onions, adding carrots, parsley, celery and a clove of minced garlic. Flavoring everything are the peeled tomatoes. It should be served warm, with parmesan cheese grated and a drizzle of olive oil.

Roman-style tripe

A custom typically Roman is to eat tripe every Saturday, either at home or in a local trattoria. In the Roman recipe, the soffritto is allowed to fade with a bit of wine, making it more spicy and spicy With a pinch of chili pepper, cloves and pepper. Inevitable at the end of cooking the pecorino cheese and some chopped leaves of mint.

Milanese tripe

In Lombardy known as "busecca" (i.e., offal in dialect Western Lombardy), this dish was often cooked by the Milanese on the evening of the Christmas Eve, and has become a representative dish of the city, in fact the Milanese are also known as "busecconi," or "tripe-eaters." The Lombard recipe also calls for the addition of beans in addition to tomato puree.